Posted on 11/21/2009 16:47:48
Usually no problem with a side cover gasket. Is there a burr on the sidecover or case that is holding them apart? Where is it leaking? Pat.
Posted on 11/19/2009 20:14:49
Kyle, Had to stay home. Played to much last summer, got to work and pay for it now. The young pro classes looked big but the others didn't seem to have very many in a class. OK Russ, your welcome. Pat.
Posted on 11/19/2009 10:21:08
There ya go. Trade and you both have the correct set up for what you like to ride. Freight might get in the way[cost]. Pat Orman.
Posted on 11/18/2009 21:00:44
Those CDI's are AC current not DC. The XRmodel had the lightest rotor but not a great difference. I've adapted one of those ignitions for pit bikes[rotor is only about 50mm in dia.]and a couple other types onto earlier XL's but takes a "bit" of work. Maybe PVL makes a CDI for those as the 500 is the same ignition. Plug the white wire back in, don't remember what it does[maybe low and high speed?]but the Ascot's had a blue and white wire[same or similar ignition]and needed both. Would run, but wasn't right. What you want is one of those old Honda XR250s crank kits. Lightened[porkchopped]flywheels, rebalanced including the counterbalancer weights. I think you could get a lightened rotor also. Offered a piston and valve fit too with contingency money paid in MX etc. but nothing for iceracing-da!!it. I'll quit rambling, Pat.
Posted on 11/17/2009 13:25:54
I don't know why a good or bad battery would affect the charging either but evidently your battery is bad[or discharged]or it would light everything too. Have you tried putting a different[proven good]battery in and see if charge will stay up? Pat.
Posted on 11/17/2009 10:26:38
You said it has a "divorced" regulator/rectifier, as in 2 seperate units? The stock unit is all one. Maybe the regulator is not "letting" it charge enough. Put a good battery in, disconnect the regulator and rectifier, start up and check stator output. Pat.
Posted on 11/17/2009 10:21:47
Then it must be the regulator/rectifier or the battery. When you hook a hot battery up, does everything work? Pat.
Posted on 11/16/2009 22:41:03
The stator on those bikes is 3 seperate coils. 1 the ignition coil for ignition only, 2 the headlight/running lights coil for lights only and 3 the charging coil for charging the battery only. The battery is for running the tail light, brake light etc when riding and for emergency lights when motor isn't running. The pink wire and the yellow wire coming out of left side cover[stator] is the charging coil. It goes to the regulator/rectifier. What doesn't work? Is your battery good? The charging output should be 2.5amp min. at 5000rpm and 4amp max. at 8000rpm with a min. 1500rpm to get anything. The lighting output[white and yellow wire]should be 7volts min. at 2500rpm and 9volts max. at 8000rpm. Says to disconnect the regulator/rectifier and have a fully charged battery installed to check charging system. I didn't look to see how the headlight voltage is regulated. This any help? Pat.
Posted on 11/15/2009 23:55:42
Hey Swiss, That's the best term[monkey-motion]I've ever heard for the RFVC rockers. I thought Honda went off the deep end with that design. They obviously didn't agree as they used it for 20? years. Oh well, "ours is not to question why---. Pat.
Posted on 11/15/2009 23:43:48
Most Hondas are jetted very lean to meet EPA standards etc. Try cleaning the pilot jet and if still too lean put a little bigger one in. It might be OK if it will start on full choke and then run half choke till warm. My cold start procedure for Honda singles is; gas on, choke on[spark of course], set idle up a little[idle adjuster], "push" it through once to just past TDC compression, take your hand OFF the throttle and kick it from the top. Don't touch the throttle till it runs just a little. If you grab the throttle too quick it will probably spit back and flood itself. Turn the choke down to half as soon as it needs and off when warm. Reset idle. When that doesn't work you "talk" to it a little and try again. Pat Orman.
Posted on 11/15/2009 08:35:19
I didn't think the old ones were rated that high but probably amounts to INSURANCE rates[lower horsepower=lower rates]and smog control. Everything is a shell game these days. Pat Orman.
Posted on 11/13/2009 21:26:50
No noises? Lot of end play in the shift shaft?Take the left sidecover off and check that everything is correct with the shift shaft etc. Shiftshaft has a couple of Cclips and they get knocked out of they're grooves. When it dies, is it like a kill switch dying or lugs down and gets killed? Just setting around, it sounds like clips got knocked out or worse yet a shift fork got bent. Let us know, Pat Orman.
Posted on 11/13/2009 12:06:07
Ignition has it's own stator coil and I think the headlight is on another stator coil with the last stator coil going to reguletor/rectifier and then battery. Should be a fuse either going in or coming out of battery[don't remember which side]. The tail lights and turn signals come off of battery. Check the wires to them and the ground wires from them. Pat.
Posted on 11/10/2009 22:02:10
On the T mark. Is the taper still good, not galled? Know how to loosen and reset cam chain tension? Everything should be easy with the cover and rotor out of the way. Pat.
Posted on 11/10/2009 13:06:24
S!#%, I'll call the post office right away. Damned CRAFT[can't remember a ------ thing]got me again. They tell me it's an age thing. Pat.
Posted on 11/10/2009 12:58:40
Understand what your saying EYY but a hammer is like a wrench. Until you use a torque wrench enough to know what 15 pounds of torque "feels" like and that a long wrench and a short wrench don't "feel" the same you should use a torque wrench. An unskilled hammer arm can cause problems with the crank is the reason I don't reccomend doing that. I have run into 3 different cranks that NO kind of persuasion I tried[including a BIG hammer]would get the rotor off. Had to take crank out and put it in a press. One of those took 15-20tons of pressure AND heat before it poped. Bent the rotor hub too. Didn't mean to offend, sorry. Pat.
Posted on 11/10/2009 12:28:44
Hey duffdaddy, If you run into a guy from Wisc. over there this winter[Stan Mallard is his name]ask him if he can get one of those Iowa boring bars for you. That should get a conversation going. Pat Orman.ps. don't know where he's staying but it will be around motorcycles.
Posted on 11/10/2009 12:16:40
I should have said the 250 and 350 rods are the same length but not the same. Wrist pin is 19 and 21mm and the crank pin and bearing are bigger on the 350. I have a way to put a new rod and piston on the 350's but not the 250's yet. Pat.
Posted on 11/10/2009 12:09:53
Main thing for the filter is to change the oil often and don't let the sludge build up from old burnt oil etc. Yes the filter should be cleaned periodically. That one had probably never been cleaned. A 350CPort motor will probably bolt right in if one is available. Pat.
Posted on 11/09/2009 09:07:56
NO HAMMER. True a set of flywheels and you'll know why. Pat Orman.
