Posted on 11/18/2009 16:43:21
http://myfiles-express.com/search.php?search=free%20honda%20xl250%20service%20manualTry this for the manual.
As Swiss and Pat say, make sure the battery you use is healthy, i.e. around 6.5 volts. One sure way of killing the reg/rectifier is running with a duff battery over a period of time. With a good battery and every wire connected as it should, you can do a simple voltage check across the battery. You should be seeing an increase in voltage over the batterys. The sytem is quite basic, so you will need to rev the engine past 1500rpm to see a good increase. My money is still on the reg/rect unit.
Pat or Swiss may know, but is it possible to swap the winding connections for the lighting and charging? If the coils are the same number of turns etc? This could eliminate the stator.
Good luck.
Posted on 11/03/2009 17:37:13
Hardo,
I know you say you have changed the main jet, but have you pulled out the emulsion tube that sits underneath it to check all the holes are clear?
I take it your advance mechanism is all free to move and located correctly. Its rare, and I have not heard of it on XLs, but the bob weight springs may be to week thus messing up the timing. Could be worth checking the timing using a strobe.
Whats the plug look like?
Posted on 11/03/2009 17:26:27
Thanks Swiss. I have found a lift that uses cups that hold the frame and allow the front and rear wheels to be lifted together but £60 ($90?) seems a bit of a luxory as I only will proberbly never remove the swingarm again. However, might go for a cheap mx lift and use a U bracket either side fitted through the stands platform. Mind you, quite like M's idea and thats a can be done with bits I have already lying around
Thanks guys,
Phil
Posted on 10/31/2009 17:19:00
Thanks Murray,
I have used (borrowed) a dirt bike lift in the past, which is basically an expensive version of what you describe! The bike was still a little wobbly, and with the forthcoming swingarm removal and the occasional brute force that that may require, I am trying to figure a more secure method. Maybe taking the bash plate off and fabricating some u brackets for the frame rails will do the trick.
Posted on 10/31/2009 08:43:49
With winter now approaching in the UK, I am looking at doing a little cosmetic maintenance on my Motorsport. What do you guys do to raise the rear of the bike sufficient to remove the wheel and swing arm? Any tips/advice would be great.
Thanks,
Phil
Posted on 10/25/2009 15:02:34
Sorry, cant help with the figures you need, but a quick search for 'xl250s manuals' came back with a site offering free downloads of the workshop manual for your bike. Could be worth a try.
I would suspect the regulator/rectifier could be the problem as the stators seem pretty robust on honda XLs. I assume yours is a 6 volt bike?
Posted on 10/24/2009 16:13:01
Yep, just pulls out
Posted on 10/13/2009 15:30:00
Do you mean the valve (tappet) clearance?
If so:
Inlet 0.05mm (0.002 inch)
Exhaust 0.08mm (0.003 inch)
This is measured between the valve stem and tappet adjuting screw (engine cold).
Rotate generator rotor CCW whilst watching the inlet tappets. Stop when the little pointer aligns with the 'T' mark on the rotor with the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. The inlet and exhaust valves should now be fully closed and you can adjust the tappets via the screw and locknut.
Posted on 10/13/2009 15:20:17
Mat,
I beleive they are the same, although I know the RS came with/without electric start, so I guess the kicker would be your best bet as it would save wiring in the start switch etc. Why not go the whole hog and stick the FT500 engine in, that would make it fun, although these also have electric start which can prove problematic. I think that was called the Ascot in the states.
Phil
Posted on 09/26/2009 12:54:44
I guess ebay has got to be the answer. A 1974 k1? Over here we still had the Motorsport then (ko).
Posted on 09/14/2009 15:00:45
Yes, its pretty easy to refurb them. If they were previously laqured, and some still remains first strip them with paint stripper. Get some various grades of wet and dry grit/sand paper. You want a selction from 600 - 1200. If they are really bad, you may need to start with some pretty course paper at first, then go to the wet and dry. Use plenty of water and work your way thru the paper until you get to the 1200. This will give a nice slightly satin finish that can be further polished with autosol. Thats the cheapest way, if not get them profesionally polished.
It is easier if you remove them, which is a simple job on the motorsport.
Posted on 09/12/2009 15:37:46
Slydog, you are gonna struggle to find a low mudguard to fit a 23' front wheel that looks right. Its hard enough getting the tyres that size. Why not get the hub relaced to a 21' rim, them you should have more luck? I assume your forks have the lower mounting points to take a low front guard?
Posted on 09/09/2009 15:53:13
If the gas wont flow from the tank to the carb, there must be a blockage somewhere. With the fuel pipe detached from the carb does the fuel pour out from the tank when the tap is switched on?
If the fuel flows ok, then there is a problem with the carb. Does the plug get wet? I know you have stripped the carb, but do it again and blow through all the little holes etc with an airline. Check the float valve works correctly (with the bottom off the carb, blow (by mouth!) where the fuel line attaches to the carb and at the same time raise the plastic floats. You should find it suddenly becomes very hard to blow as the float valve seals.
Double check the bike is all timed up correctly so the spark happens at the right time.
My uk bike has its own peculier start sequance: Choke on full (no matter the temp), tiny throttle opening (just enough to take up the play in the cable) then it goes 2nd kick.
Good luck.
Posted on 08/24/2009 13:29:49
Pictures sent. Not sure if they will help, as the mounting washers on the rear of mine looked like they had been added after the originaals were lost.
Posted on 08/22/2009 15:47:02
Hi Alan,
If you still need pictures of the indicators let me know and I will send some to you. Mine is a UK spec bike, should that make a difference.
Have you looked at
www.csmsnl.com ? Dutch site that gives good diagrams.
ATB
Phil
Posted on 08/21/2009 09:12:00
They are not paticularly cheap, but
www.reproductiondecals.com do the full/part sets. I dont think they list them on there website, but definately do them as I bought a set last month. Based in Canada, excellent service. If not try Sunrise Graphics in the UK. They also do them and are great quality.
Posted on 08/15/2009 16:04:58
Thanks Pat, yes thats the part. I am swapping RH Covers as my original is in pretty poor shape. As I am running the tacho I will remove the original if I cannot obtain a new one as you suggest. Having looked at the workshop manual it seems that this is part of the oil circulation 'circuit', with oil traveling through the hollow tacho drive shaft.
Thanks again,
Phil
Posted on 08/15/2009 01:27:01
Cheers Dave,
Thats just what I needed!
Took up your suggestion of using metal filler for the pock marks, and with the one I got from you, and the clutch cover from the States, I will have two nice covers.
ATB
Phil
