Posted on 11/13/2009 12:57:14
'Sudco has a wide range of boots, you need the measurement between the studs and the size of the carb.
Posted on 10/05/2009 20:50:37
Yup, the seal prys out pretty easy and the circlip holds the sprocket carrier on. That spanner nut doesn't need to come off.
Posted on 09/22/2009 11:08:10
It connects to the air box, but its not critical to getting the bike running.
Posted on 09/02/2009 08:03:11
Did you take the air cut off valve off? If the diaphram has a hole in it it won't run right.
Posted on 08/11/2009 19:28:43
Yes, thats the way the older bikes work. The electrics don't produce a high wattage. If i ride my '83 CB1100F below 3K for any time it will run the battery down.
Posted on 08/11/2009 16:04:15
I bought a new one on e-bay too.
Posted on 08/11/2009 16:01:20
okay, thanks.
Posted on 08/11/2009 08:54:56
I lost tension on the clutch lever at the handlebars and figured the adjustment on the clutch lever in the engine case had come loose. I popped the rubber stopper out of the side and engine oil came out. I was under the impression that the clutch adjustment was not lubricated with engine oil. Is that correct? I replaced the side case gasket with a Honda gasket when I rebuilt the engine and its not leaking outside the engine, but I guess it could be leaking internally. Do I have a problem?
The clutch adjustment was loose and I adjusted and tightened it up and the clutch works fine.
Posted on 08/10/2009 15:28:13
I spent the afternoon clean and degreasing all the parts and test fiting the parts. I didn't see anything binding so I reinstalled the rear wheel and what do you know I could torque it to 50 lbs no problem. This is the third time I removed and reinstalled the wheel and now it works. Go figure.
Posted on 08/10/2009 13:37:11
Xlint performance will mod your head and supply you with a new cam and bearing. Cam is ~$350 and boring is ~$150 if I remember right.
Posted on 08/10/2009 12:25:48
I'm still having problems with the rear wheel. I removed and disassembled the wheel as far as I can. Part nr, 13 is in place and doesn't look damaged.
Here's the sprocket side of the wheel.
The brake side.
The axel with spacers. The left spacer fits into the part below and looks like it bears on either the end of part number13 or a wheel bearing.
The sprocket side with the sprocket and flange removed. I believe the center part, with the four holes, is nr. 3 on the parts diagram. The left side axel spacer fits into this part and makes contact with what looks like the end of part nr. 13. It looks like you should be able to adjust this with a tool fitting into the four holes, but it won't have any effect on the fit of the spacer because the spacer is much longer than this is deep.
A close up of the hub. You can just see the bearing surface of whatever the spacer sit on in the center of the hub.
I installed put the axel into the wheel with all the spacers installed and the wheel will spin with the axel held stationary so everything works with it off the bike. I can't figure out why it wouldn't work on the bike too.
Posted on 08/10/2009 08:40:06
I've been riding mine without the air cut off for a few weeks now and it starts and runs fine. That's not a long term solution because there is a small hole in the side of the carb open to the atmosphere. I've found a NOS air cut off, but its about $75 plus shipping from Europe. I'm thinking for that much I'd be better off replacing the stock carb with a Mikuni from Sudco. I'm going to research that idea.
Posted on 07/26/2009 22:43:13
Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
